Tuesday, July 8, 2008

A few photos

For (many) more photos go here: http://picasaweb.google.com/MorganGMac/ChinaPhotobookSummer2008?authkey=h1uBQgYwnWk

View of Kunming from our hotel window






















Chad, Curtis, and Morgan exploring downtown Kunming


A typical sight in Kunming



Whitney's solo performance of the Brooke concerto with the Kunming Orchestra
(Dr. Lui is conducting)


And celebrating afterward







Traditional Chinese lunch with Dr. Lui, Mrs. Chang, and Ina



Our very funny baggage helper at the Kunming airport

China - Kunming

Day 2:
We arrived in Kunming around 2:00, 6 hours before Whitney’s solo violin performance with the Kunming orchestra– the reason for the MacDonalds’ visit to China. The husband of Whitney and Chad’s former violin teacher was invited to conduct the Kunming orchestra, he used the opportunity to invite Whitney to play a concerto, and the rest of us used both of them as an excuse to vacation in China. We said hi to Whitney and Patti at the hotel – the only five-start hotel in the province – and set off to explore the city. We’d spent 36 hours either on a plane, in a terminal, or in a hotel, and we were eager to start the trip. Curtis, Chad, and I had asked the hotel receptionist to write our downtown destination in Chinese characters on a business card, which made the taxi driver happy, and we were dropped off in a pedestrian shopping area. The main attraction was a long brick street with a median of trees and window-shopping on both sides, but you would have thought we were the sight to see. Everyone around us was swiveling their heads and practically walking backwards to stare at us. We didn’t know it then, but we’d need to get used to that reaction. Chad and Curtis went straight to the blind masseuses, who had set up a whole line of folding chairs down one side of the road. Just pick your blind masseuse and sit down for a bone-crushing rub. Well, half of them were blind, and it was the blind ones that made the spot famous as a good place for a massage. I opted out on the excuse of wussy shoulder muscles, but Chad and Curtis loved all twenty minutes of it. Then we walked around a bit, and the wide street turned into a wide alleyway, and the merchandise changed from handbags and clothes to dried eel and strangely-shaped produce. We weren’t tempted to buy anything.

We came to a street and turned a couple of times until we smelled spicy, delicious things and decided to get some dinner before the concert. There was a man with a cart selling some kind of meat on a stick, three for 10 yuan (about $1.50). Well, heck, sounds like an authentic Chinese experience. And on both sides were I guess what you could call cafes with outdoor only seating, and the customers all looked healthy enough. We asked for only a little spicy, so the guy spread on about 8 layers of a cayenne/chili/super spicy pepper sauce while the sticks of meat roasted over a propane flame. It only took one bite of those spicy mystery meat sticks to get us sucking in air and looking for a drink. We were definitely getting stares. The owner of the restaurant next door (well, five feet to the right at a separate fold up table) was more than happy to sell us coke bottles. We had walked a few yards down the street before we figured out the Chinese yelling behind us was actually yelling at us. The coke bottles were glass, and they definitely wanted them back when we’d finished, so we sat down at a picnic table on the sidewalk. When the meat sticks didn’t fill us up, we went down to another “next door” restaurant (another propane-cook top area with tables) and order some bowls of meat with kung-pao-like sauce and rice. Feeling like we’d gotten a fill of a real Kunming experience, we caught a cab back to our five-star hotel to get ready for Whitney’s concert.

The taxi rides in this town took probably about as long as walking would since every major street had a metal median dividing the two directions of traffic, the kind of curved metal fences we see during road construction. These little blockades meant the cars had to drive half a mile farther than they needed to until they reached a light that allowed U-turns. We made it to the concert hall on time, and we knew we were in the right spot when we saw a 4-story poster, with a 10ft x 10ft picture of the night’s soloist, hanging on the front of the building. Whitney played her Brooke concerto during the first half, and she sounded absolutely fantastic. She looked every bit the confident, adept soloist in her black A-line dress with dramatic white satin flares falling down the back, and audience called her back for several rounds of bows when she’d finished. Truth be told, they might have wanted to see Whitney’s glowing blonde hair one more time as much as show their appreciation for her violin performance (although both were beautiful). Incidentally, since we sat next to Mrs. Chang (Whitney and Chad’s old violin teacher and wife of the conductor), we showed her pictures of the things we’d ordered that afternoon, and she informed us it had been a very bad idea to eat food from street vendors. Even she never did that. Well, we never did get sick – but we never ordered from street vendors again either. The MacDonald family went back to the hotel lounge for champagne and finally got a chance to relax, relay adventures from the past week (since Whitney and Patti had been there for 6 nights or so), and congratulate Whitney on her fabulous performance.

Day 3:
Mrs. Cheng and Dr. Lui (it’s traditional for the wife to keep her last name, so yes, this is the teacher and conductor married couple) and their 15-year-old daughter, Ina, took us to a traditional Chinese restaurant for lunch. We had a private room with a sitting area for enjoying green tea before lunch and a huge circular table for a Chinese feast. The seating arrangement is quite important for a Chinese meal, and Dr. Lui put Whitney at the place of honor, farthest from and facing the door. For over an hour, waiters brought huge plates of food to put on the lazy susan, and we spun the food around while picking pieces off plates with our chopsticks. It’s a wonder we don’t use lazy susans more often in the States – they are so efficient! Our chopstick skills were a little slippery at first, but we improved as we went along. There were platters of round corn puffs, pumpkin slices, whole spicy shrimp, chicken pieces, sautéed broccoli, roasted crispy duck, green vegetables of some sort, and several more plates I can’t identify. Most of them were absolutely delicious. One plate I tried only once turned out to be a stew of eel and frog, but all the others were mostly recognizable or only a little odd to our American tongues. With stomachs full, we said our goodbyes and went to pack for our next city of adventure: Beijing.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Ni hau from China

The first year of grad school ended well enough, Chad and I went back to Midland for 5 weeks to work - him as a summer associate at Stubbeman and me as a barista/cashier at Harvest Caffe - and as of Wednesday, we've started our two months of travel lunacy. Here's the itinerary:
June 25 - July 4: China
Kunming, Beijing, and Hong Kong with MacDonald family

July 5 - July 30: Germany
Berlin during the week and TBD German destinations on the weekends

July 31 - August 5: Boston/Berlin
Morgan in Boston with Darcy & Chad stays in Berlin

August 6 - 9 or 10: Midland
Packing all the things that didn't go to China & Germany

August 9 or 10 - August 16: Dallas
Chad has a week-long summer associate position at Haynes & Boone

August 17 - 19: Nashville
Try to organize life before school starts

August 20 - 23 New York
Just for kicks since the MacDonalds have a place in Manhattan

August 24: Nashville
School starts

Since lunacy is abounding this summer, it's only right that you hear the details and witness it all through pictures. I'm working on getting a cable to download the pictures (which is sitting in one of many piles scattered throughout my various homes), but for now, here is China thus far.

Day 1
Chad and I left Midland on a 6 am flight to Dallas, then San Francisco, then Hong Kong. The 24 hours of travel went better than I'd expected. It's like a long drive - after a while, your brain just floats along and you forget that you've been on a plane for a full day. We landed in Hong Kong with all of our baggage and waited for Curtis' plane to get in before grabbing a taxi to the hotel. We had the hotel name written out in Chinese, so we just handed the paper to the taxi driver. This has pretty much been the only way we can get around, since we can't even attempt to pronounce the hotel names correctly, so we're totally dependent on some nice English-speaking Chinese soul to look at our email confirmation, know which hotel it is, and write it in characters without taking the opportunity to play a practical joke on a bunch of Americans. So far, so good. We all stayed up in the hotel lobby for the next 3 hours, drinking Chinese beer and French wine, and snacking until Rod made it in. The hotel was super sleek and modern, everyone spoke some English, everything was written in Mandarin and English, and the rooms (including showers and toilets) were exactly what you'd expect in an American hotel.

Day 2
We all woke up in plenty of time to head back to the airport for a noon flight to Kunming. Whitney and Patti had already been camped out at the 5-star hotel there for a week so that Whitney could get acclimated and practiced well enough to perform her solo with the Kunming orchestra. So back to the airport we went. Interesting thing about the Hong Kong airport - since Hong Kong is an island, when they ran out of expansion room, they decided to just build another island for the airport. The patient little Chinese people flattened a small, mountainous island and put in ton after ton of dirt into the ocean until the island quadrupled in size. No shock that this is the most expensive airport in the world, but it is shocking how spacious it is. with hug lobbies, extra-wide walking areas, and plenty of spaces between rows of chairs at the gates. And even after $20 USD in construction, they're still willing to pitch in free wireless. We boarded our Dragon Air flight and were amazed when they announced they would be serving lunch for our 12-2 flight - and it was better than any of the food United served on our international flight! Plus served with orange juice, water, your choice of additional drink, and coffee/tea to finish it off. So there are occasional perks with a communist regime that subsidizes airlines.

But we'll have to continue with Kunming later because it's now time for breakfast and exploring Beijing.

Zai Jain!